Guide · Kitchen · Autumn & winter
As soon as the leaves start to fall, game appears again in the poulterer’s display: saddle of hare, pheasant, roe deer steak and wild boar for stewing. This guide explains what a poulterer is, which game you can buy, when it is in season and which questions to ask before you pay.
What is a poulterer?
A poulterer (in Dutch: poelier) specialises in poultry and game. Where a butcher mainly sells beef and pork, a poulterer offers chicken, duck, guinea fowl and rabbit, and in autumn and winter also hare, pheasant, venison and wild boar. A good poulterer knows where the meat comes from, prepares it ready for the pan and gives advice on cooking it.
Which game will you find?
| Game | What to buy | Flavour & cooking |
|---|---|---|
| Hare | Saddle fillet, legs, whole hare | Dark and pronounced; sear the saddle, braise the legs |
| Rabbit | Whole or in portions | Mild and lean; classically braised |
| Pheasant | Whole bird, breast fillets | Delicate and lean; don’t overcook or it dries out |
| Mallard | Whole duck, breast fillets | Firmer and gamier than farmed duck; cook the breast pink |
| Roe deer | Saddle fillet, steak, stewing meat | Tender and refined; the most delicate venison |
| Red deer & fallow deer | Steak, rolled roast, stewing meat | Robust and lean; cuts from the leg are ideal for stews |
| Wild boar | Stewing meat, roast, sausages | Fuller than pork; always cook it through |
When is game season?
Fresh game is mostly available in autumn and winter, peaking around the holidays. Outside that period many poulterers sell frozen game, or meat from abroad. Venison and wild boar are often available for most of the year. Want to know what happens in nature and on the plate month by month? Have a look at the seasonal calendar.
Five questions for your poulterer
- Where does it come from? Dutch, elsewhere in Europe or further afield? A good poulterer can tell you.
- Is it wild or farmed? A lot of venison in shops comes from farms, for example in New Zealand. It tastes milder than venison from the wild.
- Fresh or previously frozen? Frozen game is fine, but then don’t refreeze it at home.
- Which cut suits my dish? Quick cooking calls for saddle or fillet; for a stew, leg and shoulder are better and cheaper.
- Can you prepare it for me? Ask whether the poulterer will bone, portion or tie a rolled roast. It saves a lot of work at home.
Ordering for the holidays
Order in good time. Game is popular around Christmas, and saddle of hare, saddle of roe deer and whole pheasants sell out quickly. Many poulterers open their order lists as early as November. Order well ahead and agree on a collection day.
Storing game
| Fridge | Preferably use fresh game within one or two days |
| Freezer | Well wrapped, with the air pressed out; it keeps for months |
| Thawing | Slowly in the fridge, not on the worktop |
| Before cooking | Take the meat out of the fridge in time so it cooks more evenly |
Finding a poulterer
Search for poelier together with the name of your town, or check the weekly market: poulterers often have a van full of poultry and game there. More and more poulterers also have an online shop where you order and then collect. Unsure about a shop? A poulterer who talks openly about origin and preparation is usually a good choice.
Frequently asked questions
Questions about buying game
What is the difference between a poulterer and a butcher?
A butcher mainly sells beef and pork. A poulterer specialises in poultry and game, such as chicken, duck, rabbit, hare, pheasant and venison.
When can you buy fresh game?
Mainly in autumn and winter, peaking around the holidays. Out of season, game is often frozen or imported.
Is venison from the shop always wild?
No. Much venison comes from farms, for example in New Zealand. Ask your poulterer about the origin if you want venison from the wild.
How far ahead should you order game for Christmas?
Order well in advance; many poulterers open their Christmas order list in November and popular cuts sell out fast.
Can you refreeze frozen game?
Better not once it has thawed raw. That’s why it’s worth asking your poulterer whether the meat was previously frozen.
Want to know more about the animals behind the meat? Read about the hare, the roe deer, the wild boar and the pheasant, or open the full field guide.
